The role of eyelash curling for extensions
The curves of the eyelashes are an important criterion for the quality of the extension procedure. They are selected individually, depending on the client’s initial data and the desired result. When building extensions, the master can use one or more of their types.
When selecting, the following factors are taken into account:
- Strength of natural eyelashes. The stronger the bend, the harder it is for the eyelashes to hold it.
- Harmonious look. A correctly chosen curve can improve the shape of the eyes, while an incorrect one can ruin it (even with good natural characteristics).
- Duration of wear. When choosing the right curve, the eyelashes last a long time and do not break off or fall out too often.
Beneficial highlighting of the eyes is possible not only with volumetric extensions (2D, 3D), but also with classic or incomplete ones. In this case, the effect is achieved by easily highlighting the natural beauty of the eyelashes (extension through 1.2 eyelashes, highlighting the outer corner of the eye).
For lovers of super-expressive eyes, there is ultra-volume extensions (4D-7D). When up to 7 artificial hairs are extended for each natural eyelash. In this case, it is important not to overdo it, otherwise the eye itself will not be visible under a thick layer of eyelashes.
The most popular types of eyelash extensions
- Extension of corners.
With this type of eyelash extension, artificial hairs are glued from the outer corner and brought to the middle of the eye. Light natural eyelashes require preliminary coloring, since the use of mascara after the procedure is contraindicated.
- Incomplete extension
If you naturally have long eyelashes, then you can turn to this type of extension, which adds volume (the photo shows eyelashes before and after the procedure). When selecting artificial hairs, the master strives to ensure that their length is as close as possible to the length of his own.
The distance between the glued eyelashes is kept small. As in the previous case, you may need to pre-color the hairs to avoid too sharp a contrast at the end of the procedure.
- Full extension.
This type is a full-fledged eyelash extension, giving the eyes the most elegant, practical and natural look. The high professionalism of the specialist will allow you not to apply for correction for a long time after the procedure.
- Extension in 2 rows.
This type of eyelash extension is suitable for bold and bright girls who want to focus attention on their eyes. In fact, this procedure is also a lash procedure, but 2 artificial eyelashes are glued to each natural eyelash.
The result is a very impressive look with good volume. Experts recommend using this extension option for girls who have few eyelashes of their own.
Recommended reading:
- Which eyelash extension to choose for yourself
- Eyelash extensions: pros and cons of the procedure
- Can pregnant women get eyelash extensions?
Types of bends
There are 8 main types of bends, of which about 4-5 types are popular and frequently used. Each of them suits a certain type of eyelashes and eye shape. They are classified by letters of the English alphabet in the following order:
- J - invisible (what it looks like) - almost straight hair, with a barely noticeable curl at the end. Most often used for extending lower eyelashes or creating the most natural look with classic and incomplete extensions. Also appropriate if you have long but sparse eyelashes.
- B – minor – unlike the J-bend, it has a slightly more curled tip. Used when it is necessary to create an inconspicuous accent on the eyes. For most women, their own eyelashes are identical to the B curve. Due to this, an enhancing effect is achieved that is not visible to others.
- WITH – medium – visually opens the eye due to a moderate but visible bend. Suitable for any type of extension. In most cases, women prefer this type.
Differences between C and D eyelash curls for eyelash extensions - D (SS) – significant – ideal for solving problems such as lack of volume of eyelashes, drooping eyelids, and downward growing eyelashes. Such eyelashes can completely change the perception of the eyes and face as a whole, but it will not be possible to achieve naturalness when using this curl.
- M - significant - differs in apparent length and volume, in comparison with identical eyelashes of other curves. Recommended for women with downward growing eyelashes.
- U - very strong - extremely curved eyelashes, when extensions are used, the Baby Doll effect is achieved. Suitable for young girls who prefer a similar style of clothing. When adding extensions, it is important not to overdo it with volume, otherwise the eyes will look ridiculous and ugly.
- L - very strong - the bend is distinguished by a straight base with a curved (in other cases the hair is curled) end. This look is suitable for women with straight eyelashes and glasses lovers. When used correctly, it is an effective eye shape corrector.
- L+ - very strong - something between L and CC bends. Used to create the effect of an open eye in the presence of swollen, drooping eyelids.
In addition to the main types, some manufacturers supplement their lines with C+, Q bends and other non-standard options. Most often, they are either analogues of some type or differ slightly from it.
Length of eyelash extensions
Eyelashes for extensions differ not only in their curve, but also in their length. Their classification in this case is determined by millimeters and starts from 5 mm and ends at 18 mm. Many manufacturers produce 20-25 mm eyelashes. They are built up for a short period of time during photo shoots, performances, theme evenings to enhance eye makeup.
Eyelashes 5-9 mm long are quite thin and fragile. When working with them, special care must be taken. They are built up on the inner corner of the eye and are designed to give more volume than length.
Eyelashes 10-14 mm are the most common and universal. They have an ideal length-thickness-weight ratio. It is most convenient for craftsmen to work with them.
Eyelashes 15-18 mm long are used to extend the outer corner of the eye and give the look the desired effect (fox, squirrel, radiant and others).
Important. An experienced, qualified specialist uses from 3 to 6 different lengths of eyelashes when doing eyelash extensions. A smooth transition guarantees a beautiful and natural look and does not weigh down natural eyelashes unnecessarily.
Selection by shape
One of the problems that artificial eyelashes solve is visual correction of the eyes. The ideal is considered almond-shaped, in which the segment between the outer and inner corners is equal to the distance between the latter. Moreover, they are all on the same axis. But if you have eyes of a different shape, then this is easy to fix.
- Raised outer corners. In order to hide this flaw, eyelashes with minimal bending are used on the outer ones.
- Deep-set eyes. Here it is necessary to visually expand the look and curled hairs will cope with this task.
- Omitted outer corners. Lift up, make your eyes lively. On the outside, eyelashes with maximum bending are used. The lower eyelid does not stand out.
- Round eyes. It is necessary to lengthen it, bring it closer to the almond shape. For this purpose, minimally curled eyelashes are used.
- Drooping eyelid. Here you need to make the look open, hide the fold. As mentioned above, eyelashes with an L curve are used for this purpose; they should lengthen towards the outer corner.
- Small eyes. They need to be lengthened and made wider. Hair will need minimal curl.
- Narrow-set eyes. In such conditions, our goal will be to visually increase the distance between them. At the inner corners, the eyelashes should be curled more tightly than on the outside.
- For mature women. Here you need to make your look fresh and open; eyelashes with a medium C or CC curl are suitable for this.
- Wide-set eyes. In this case, the distance between them needs to be narrowed using eyelashes B or L, that is, with maximum curl strength, attached to the inner corners of the eyes and on the middle part of the eyelid. The hairs should be less curved at the edges.
Volume and thickness
When applying eyelash extensions, their thickness is also important. The larger it is, the more voluminous the eyes look. Thickness also affects the weight of the hairs.
The minimum dimensions are 0.05 - 0.08 mm. They are ideal for 3D-7D extension techniques, creating a stunning effect. At the same time, the total mass of eyelashes does not weigh down the eyes.
A thickness of 0.1 - 0.13 mm is used for classic or 1.5-2D extensions. This way, the effect of natural, bright eyes is achieved without unnecessarily burdening natural eyelashes.
Craftsmen use a thickness of 0.14 – 0.19 mm for the classic extension option. The result is the effect of eyes lined with liner. The lashes are durable, elastic, but at the same time lightweight - therefore suitable for daily wear.
A thickness of 0.2 - 0.25 mm is used exclusively to enhance the image and highlight the eyes during photo or video shooting, and performances on stage. Due to their size when worn, they are quite rigid and not very comfortable.
Important. The thickness of the eyelashes plays an important role in giving a uniform, desired volume. Especially if a woman has empty spaces in the eyelash growth area.
Hair material
The material from which eyelash extensions are made comes in several types.
Natural animal fur . Hairs from the ears or tails of squirrels, foxes, and arctic foxes are used and processed in a special way. They are soft, light and elastic.
Among the disadvantages of the material, masters highlight:
- uneven bend, length and thickness;
- gradual color fading;
- allergic reactions in women with sensitive eyes;
- change in bending during wear under the influence of external environmental factors (humidity, temperature).
Due to the large number of negative qualities, this material is rarely used by professional craftsmen.
Rubber natural fiber . They are characterized by high elasticity and sufficient strength. In rare cases, they can provoke allergic reactions.
Eyelashes have one significant drawback - the unreasonably high cost. As a result, the cost of the entire procedure increases, so not every woman can afford such eyelashes.
Synthetic fiber . The most commonly used type of material.
There are three main types of monofilaments from which hairs are made:
1. Polished acrylic. The first eyelash extensions were produced from it. They were quite rigid and durable, and had a pronounced glossy shine. They had no gradation in diameter and bend (mostly it was a C, D-bend with a thickness of 0.24 mm). The socks caused discomfort due to low elasticity.
2. Polyester. The advantages of the material include:
- elasticity and softness during work and subsequent daily wear;
- low degree of deformation;
- color uniformity along the entire length;
- hypoallergenic;
- no possibility of burnout;
- hydrophobicity.
The material rightfully occupies a leading position in the market for the production of artificial eyelashes.
3. Polybutylene terephthalate (PBT) – has similar positive characteristics to polyester and is easy to use. The difference is the great variability of eyelash designs.
Highlight:
- matte fiber (mink) – has a deep black color, suitable for a natural effect when building up;
- glossy fiber (sable, silicone) - heavier, brighter hairs. With their help you can achieve the effect of eyeliner;
- semi-matte fiber (silk) is the lightest eyelash produced. Suitable for extensions on thin, weakened eyelashes. The downside is their color - it is lighter, with a gray tint.
Important. Before the procedure, you should consult with a specialist to find out what materials he uses and whether they are suitable for achieving the desired result.
How to choose the size of eyelashes for your eyes
The curves of eyelashes for extensions, as well as their length and thickness, are selected taking into account several important factors:
- Characteristics of natural eyelashes. Strong, healthy hair can easily withstand almost any extension (even super voluminous). And weak eyelashes that are prone to brittleness and loss require an individual approach. It is important to choose the right material that will cause the least harm.
- Desired result. Depending on the effect the woman wants to get, the master selects hairs with suitable parameters.
- Initial eye data. The standard shape is considered almond-shaped. Therefore, when doing extensions, most often the artist strives to adjust the eyes to this shape. By choosing different curves, lengths and thicknesses of hairs, it is possible to lift the outer corners of the eyes, making the gaze open and wide open.
There are several private tips for selecting eyelash parameters for eyelash extensions.
Tip 1. The older the woman, the more natural extensions are recommended for daily wear. This way, age-related changes on the face will not stand out.
Tip 2. The fox extension effect will help correct eyes that are located close to each other. It will also make round eyes more harmonious.
Tip 3. Experts recommend extensions with a squirrel effect for those with bulging eyes.
Tip 4. For young girls with Asian type eyes (narrow, slitty), a doll-shaped or ray-like effect is best suited.
Tip 5. Eyes located deep in the sockets are corrected using the maximum possible bend.
Tip 6. If you have light eyelashes of medium length, you should not choose the largest possible sizes, as such extensions will look unnatural if worn every day.
Tip 7: If a woman likes to wear glasses (sunglasses or for vision), it is preferable to choose L or L+ curves. Because other eyelashes will hit the glass, which causes discomfort and may lead to partial breakage of the material.
Tip 8. If you are not exactly sure what size and effect a woman needs, you can use disposable false eyelashes of different lengths and curls. The ability to evaluate the eyes in several variations will help determine the desired result.
Popular eyelash curls and effect
Curving eyelash extensions can create different eye effects.
Common ones are:
- Natural effect. It is created by eyelash extension of small length hairs (no more than 2-3 mm longer than natural eyelashes). In this way, you can emphasize the natural beauty of the eyes without raising suspicions that the eyelashes are unnatural. However, it will not be possible to correct the shape in this case. Most often performed with eyelashes with J, B, C – curves.
- Fox effect. It is created by smoothly increasing the length of the hairs from the inner corner of the eye to the outer. The look becomes mysterious and attractive. Performed with eyelashes with M, L, L+ curves.
- Squirrel effect. It is achieved by smoothly but slightly increasing the length of the eyelashes on 2/3 of the eye (starting from the inner corner) and abruptly transitioning to a longer length on the outer corner of the eye. The extension process is similar to the fox effect, but the difference in length makes the look bright, extraordinary and exciting. Performed with eyelashes with B, C, D, L – curves.
- Ray effect. It is obtained by alternating several lengths during the extension process. As a result, the eyes begin to “shine” like the sun. The gaze becomes open. Performed with eyelashes with C, D, M, L+ curves.
- Baby doll effect. Achieved through the process of volumetric hair extensions of the same length (at least 12 mm). The effect is not always comfortable to wear, since the natural eyelashes at the inner corner of the eye are thin and short. It is difficult for them to withstand the weight and length of artificial eyelashes. In most cases, this extension option is chosen by young girls. He is able to add romance and naivety to the image, making him look younger. On adult women, a baby doll looks ridiculous and comical. It is performed with eyelashes with D, M, U, L+ curves.
- Millennium effect. When doing extensions, the master, at the client’s request, uses rhinestones, feathers or colored hairs. The eyes become bright, defiant, noticeable. Suitable for brave girls or evening outings. Performed with eyelashes with any curve.
Materials
Eyes hurt after eyelash extensions
To achieve the desired effect, you need to know which eyelashes are best to extend. They are selected individually, taking into account the shortcomings that it is desirable to hide. Here you will have to pay attention not only to the material of the bristles, but also to the shape of the eyelashes (curve), as well as thickness and length.
You can find out what length of eyelash extensions is suitable in a particular case from the table below.
Choosing artificial eyelashes according to their length
Length, mm | Recommendations for use |
7 | The shortest villi are attached exclusively to the inner corner of the eye. |
10 | The best option to get a natural effect, regardless of the length of your natural eyelashes |
12 | The result is especially noticeable if your own hairs do not reach 8 mm, but are not suitable for wearing every day |
14 | Offered to those with long eyelashes to give more expressiveness to the look. Recommended for special occasions and parties. Girls with light, short, sparse eyelashes should not use this option - the image will turn out provocative |
15-20 | Quite bulky both in appearance and in feel. They are used only for specific cases and are considered “one day” eyelashes. You should not leave them overnight - contact with the pillow causes the bristles to bend and break easily |
The length of eyelashes for extensions is selected depending on what types of gluing will be used. When creating an image, different sizes of artificial fibers can be used simultaneously.
Classification of artificial eyelashes
The thickness of eyelashes ranges from 0.05 mm to 0.25 mm. Fibers with parameters of 0.15-0.20 mm are often in demand. Eyelash extensions look more natural with the finest bristles. The thickest ones are not recommended for everyday wear - they are too heavy. They are not suitable for girls with weak natural eyelashes.
The types and effects you want to achieve will be successful if you choose the right eyelash curl. For convenience, it is marked with letters of the Latin alphabet. You can see a large selection of options on sale, the most popular of which are presented in the table below.
Popular eyelash curls
Letter designation | Description |
J | There is almost no curl, so the eyelashes look almost straight |
b | This is a light curl and is the best way to get natural eyelashes. |
c | The most popular forms; thanks to the slight bend c gives the effect of curled eyelashes |
d | The maximum level of bending, giving the eyes wideness. It should be borne in mind that option d does not go with any appearance. |
There is also a ss curve - the average between c and d curve eyelashes, while they are closer to the latter type. These options are best suited for festive events, as they give the appearance a “doll” look.
It is important to know how to choose eyelashes for extensions based on the quality of the material. Despite the fact that silicone and rubber bristles used in the American eyelash extension method are quite resistant to changes in humidity and temperature, other types are still more popular. Their characteristics are shown in the table below.
Eyelash extension material
Fiber type | Description |
Mink | The lightest and thinnest (0.1-0.12 mm) villi, their structure as close as possible to natural eyelashes. Externally similar to mink fur hairs - just as soft, shiny and graceful. Suitable for any type of extension |
Silk | Slightly denser than mink - 0.12-0.20 mm. Thanks to their glossy shine, smooth fibers add a special charm to evening makeup. They perfectly emphasize natural beauty and do not weigh down natural eyelashes. |
Sable | The most difficult type of eyelash extension. Although the fibers are soft, elastic, do not bend or break, they are used extremely rarely. But it is the sable material that can give the look a stunning captivating look. |
Important! Types of eyelash extensions dictate their own rules in the selection of material. Not every eyelash curl is suitable for a particular occasion. When choosing the thickness of the fibers, you should take into account the ability of your natural eyelashes to withstand their weight.
How bending affects the result, subsequent care and correction
The curves of eyelashes for extensions have a great influence on the final result of the master’s work. However, subsequent care and correction procedure are the same for any hair parameters.
Leshmakers recommend adhering to a few simple rules to maintain the resulting effect:
- Don't sleep face down. Despite the high degree of elasticity of modern materials, systematic and prolonged squeezing of eyelashes leads to their deformation.
- Do not rub your eyes with your hands. This is a bad habit not only for women with eyelash extensions. This stretches the thin and delicate skin around the eyes, which leads to the premature appearance of wrinkles.
- Reduce the use of decorative cosmetics. Since the eyes become expressive and bright, this becomes easy. You can use shadows and liners. They must be washed off with a cotton swab or a thin cotton pad using micellar water.
- Avoid using oily or greasy skincare products. With a modern wide range of all kinds of lotions, makeup removers, creams and serums, choosing alternative products is not difficult.
- Do not tug or pull eyelashes. This is harmful not only to extensions, but to natural eyelashes.
The development of the beauty industry, including in the field of eyelash extensions, through the development of new materials, types of curves and related devices, makes it possible for every woman to feel more attractive and desirable after making such a minor correction of her appearance.
Author: Lilia (ljalja0501)
Article design: Vladimir the Great
How to care for eyelash extensions?
First of all, after the procedure, you need to wait a day or more for the glue to set and the extensions to be tightly attached to your own hairs. To do this, do not wet your eyes, wash your face, or go to the pool or sauna. Do not use creams, as the oils in them can dissolve the glue.
It is not recommended to abuse the cream even after 24 hours. Cosmetics have almost no effect on eyelash extensions, with the exception of eyelash removers. Some experts even recommend removing eye makeup only with a cotton swab, so as not to rub or tug at the artificial fibers.
Eyelash extensions are also sensitive to mechanical damage. Girls are not even recommended to sleep with their face in the pillow so that the bend of the hairs is not disturbed. Many hairdressers advise you to refrain from visiting a solarium, sauna and bathhouse, since high temperatures can cause artificial hairs to become dull and straighten.
It is strictly forbidden to remove eyelash extensions yourself! This should be done by a professional who will dissolve the glue with a special liquid and gently remove the lint so that your own eyelashes are not damaged.
The extension lasts from several weeks to several months, depending on how carefully the girl treats her hair and how closely she follows the hairdresser’s recommendations. If all recommendations are followed and high-quality materials are used, then the extensions will last a very long time, and correction will be required only when your own eyelashes begin to fall out. Of course, short hairs extended using Japanese techniques will last longer than doll extensions, and correction will be needed less often.
Many girls are skeptical about “artificial beauty,” including eyelash extensions. But if the material is chosen correctly, the hairs are short and thin, and the technician has the necessary qualifications, then the eyelashes will look very natural and natural. In this case, extensions will only emphasize the natural beauty, but will not cause the girl any discomfort.